Buying Guides 4 min read

Auction Damage Codes Explained for Used Car Buyers

What auction damage codes like front end, all over, water/flood and hail mean, how to read primary and secondary damage, and what the codes leave out.

Illustration of an auction gavel in front of a report showing a car with damage tags

Insurance and salvage auctions describe each vehicle with a few short labels: the primary damage, the secondary damage, the title type and whether it runs. If a vehicle you are looking at was sold at auction, those labels are a quick summary of what it looked like then. An accident check by VIN shows reported accidents and, where available, past auction and sale records with photos.

How an auction listing describes damage

Labels and wording vary by auction, but most listings include the same kinds of fields:

FieldWhat it tells you
Primary damageThe main area or type of damage the auction recorded
Secondary damageA second area or type, if any
Loss typeWhy the vehicle was sold, such as collision, theft, water or fire
Title or document typeThe title the vehicle was sold with, such as clean, salvage or certificate of destruction
Run conditionWhether the vehicle started or moved on the day it was checked
Odometer statusWhether the recorded mileage is believed actual
KeysWhether keys came with the vehicle

Common damage codes

  • Front end, rear end: damage to the front or rear. The code says nothing about how deep it goes; a front-end hit can be a bumper or a bent frame.
  • Left side, right side: damage along one side, often doors and pillars.
  • Roof: damage from above, such as a falling object or a rollover.
  • Rollover: the vehicle rolled. Expect damage to the roof, pillars and several panels.
  • Undercarriage: damage underneath, such as from hitting debris or a curb.
  • All over: damage on several sides of the vehicle.
  • Water/flood: the vehicle was in water. The code rarely shows how high the water reached. See how to spot a flood-damaged car.
  • Hail: dents across the upper surfaces. Often cosmetic, but it can be severe enough for a total loss.
  • Burn, burn – engine, burn – interior: fire damage, from a small engine-bay fire to a burned-out cabin.
  • Vandalism: deliberate damage, such as broken glass, slashed seats or scratched paint.
  • Mechanical: a reported mechanical fault rather than body damage.
  • Minor dents/scratches, normal wear: light cosmetic damage.
  • Stripped: parts were removed, often after a theft.

Primary vs secondary damage

The primary damage is the one the auction considered most significant. The secondary damage is another one it noted. Neither is a full list. A vehicle listed as "front end" with no secondary damage can still have damage elsewhere that was not visible or not recorded.

Run condition and odometer status

Run condition is usually recorded as whether the engine started and whether the vehicle could be driven on the day of the check. It is a snapshot, not a mechanical inspection. A vehicle that "runs and drives" at the auction can still have serious hidden faults.

Odometer status shows whether the auction believed the reading was the actual mileage. A status such as "not actual" or "exceeds mechanical limits" means the reading cannot be trusted, and you should look at the odometer readings in the vehicle's history. See how to read a vehicle history report.

What damage codes leave out

  • How bad the damage is. The code names an area, not the severity or the cost of repair.
  • Hidden damage. Frame, airbag, electrical and flood damage are often not visible from the outside.
  • How it was repaired. The auction records the vehicle as sold. What happened next is not in the code.

How to use auction records when buying

  1. Look at the photos. They often show more than the code, and they show the vehicle before any repair.
  2. Compare the title then and now. A vehicle sold at auction on a salvage title should not now have an unbranded title without a clear explanation. See title washing and salvage vs rebuilt title.
  3. Ask for repair records that match the recorded damage.
  4. Have the repaired area inspected by a mechanic or body shop you choose.

Frequently asked questions

Does a damage code mean the car was a total loss?

Not always. Many vehicles at insurance auctions are total losses, but some are sold for other reasons, such as theft recovery or fleet disposal. Check the title type on the listing and the brands in the title history.

Should I avoid a hail or minor-dent vehicle?

It can be a reasonable buy at the right price, but the code alone does not prove the damage was minor. Look at the photos and get an inspection.

UsedVehiclePro Editorial Team
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UsedVehiclePro Editorial Team

Guides

The UsedVehiclePro team writes plain-language guides on VINs, title brands and window stickers, with every fact linked to its source.

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